Chlorophytum is one of the most common representatives of the Liliaceae family, uniting about 200-250 species in the genus. Information on the number of species modifications in various botanical sources does not completely coincide. For the first time, the plant was found in South Africa. Wild plantings of chlorophytum cover tropical regions. The name consists of two words, “chloros” and “phyton”, the translation of which means “green” and “plant”.
Description of chlorophytum
Chlorophytum looks like a herbaceous bushy plant with a developed root system of a tuberous type. The leaves, collected in a rosette, have a lanceolate or oval shape. Deciduous rosettes lengthen up to 50 cm. At the stage of flowering, tiny snow-white inflorescences are formed. Chlorophytum flowers are tiny and very delicate, have a white color and are located on long peduncles.
Chlorophytum is used for growing as an ampelous plant. It is planted in groups with other flowers or placed separately. This perennial is able to filter the air, purify it from carbon monoxide and formaldehyde. For this reason, it is better to put a flower pot with a flower in the kitchen, where air circulation is essential.
Chlorophytum is very popular and is found in almost every home. Often it is from this plant that the passion for floriculture begins. He’s incredibly handsome. In everyday life, it is unpretentious, it is almost impossible to destroy it – chlorophytum can without a twinge of conscience be referred to the category of “immortals”. Chlorophytum lives for more than ten years.
Basic rules for growing chlorophytum
Let’s briefly list the basic requirements that must be observed when growing chlorophytum.
|Lighting level||In the room where the flower stands, there should be diffused light. Variegated chlorophytum species will bloom fully only on a windowsill, where a lot of sun gets in. Instances with monochrome green foliage develop in partial shade.|
|Temperature||In the room where the flower stands, there should be diffused light. Variegated species will bloom fully only on the windowsill, where a lot of the sun gets. Instances with monochrome green foliage develop in partial shade.|
|Watering||In spring and summer, the flower is watered regularly and in large quantities. Watering has been reduced since December. Moistening is resumed only after the soil is at least a quarter dry.|
|Air humidity||Optimum humidity is 50-60% with normal ventilation and weather.|
|Soil composition||The substrate should include sand, turf, humus, and leafy soil. The proportion of incoming components is 1: 2: 2: 2.|
|Topdressing||Nutrients are introduced into the soil only in the first decade of the year. It is enough to feed the perennial once every 2 weeks, taking turns adding organic and mineral fertilizers.|
|Dormant period||Dormancy for chlorophytum begins in October and lasts until January inclusive.|
|Bloom||Chlorophytum is bred as an ornamental deciduous perennial.|
|Reproduction methods||Chlorophytum propagates using cuttings and seeds.|
|Pests||Spider mites, aphids and worms.|
|Diseases||Rotting of leaf plates and shoots, the appearance of spots on the rosettes, the loss of variegated species of their individual pattern, a decrease in turgor pressure in the leaves.|
Chlorophytum care at home
There is no need for special care for chlorophytum: the main thing is timely watering and feeding in spring and summer. An interesting fact is that if the plant is not watered for a long time, it will still not die, but it will not say thank you either, so it is better not to experiment with your pet.
In terms of lighting, chlorophytum is not very picky, but a plant in the light looks much more attractive and healthier, in the shade it fades. Chlorophytum pots are kept on the sunny side, mainly in the east or west direction. Here, direct rays only for a short time fall into the windows, and the rest of the day is dominated by diffused light. For variegated varieties, it is important to be in rooms that are most illuminated by the sun both in summer and winter. If you put the plants in partial shade, you may encounter the problem of leaf discoloration.
The plant develops equally stably in cool and hot weather. In summer, the flower is allowed to be carried outdoors. The place should be away from drafts and protected from precipitation. In winter, the temperature in the room should not be allowed to drop below 10 degrees, otherwise, the culture risks dying.
Indoor chlorophytum species need abundant moisture during spring and summer. Watering is carried out frequently. With a lack of water in the soil, deformation of the tuberous processes is observed. A thickening appears on the tubers. In winter, the amount of irrigation water is reduced, but the earthy clod in the flowerpot is not allowed to dry out. They also try to prevent stagnation of fluid near underground parts.
Chlorophytum prefers high humidity. It is not necessary to spray the leaves through a spray bottle. You can do this procedure if you have free time. As a rule, a perennial respond gratefully to the regular moisturizing of the leaves, begins to grow more active and build up mass.
A loose and light substrate containing humus, sod and deciduous soil is suitable for growing chlorophytum. The ratio of the components is the same. Half the amount of sand is added. Drainage material is placed at the bottom so that water does not stagnate in the tubers.
In the summer and spring months, top dressing is applied every 2 weeks. The flower reacts positively to the introduction of mineral and organic fertilizers.
At an early age, the flower is often transplanted. For a year, the nodule root system grows strongly, so young bushes are transplanted into flowerpots of a larger diameter. Instances that have reached the age of 3-4 years are rarely disturbed. The procedure is scheduled for the end of February or March. The pot is selected wide and roomy.
Reproduction of chlorophytum
Growing from seeds
Sowing of chlorophytum is carried out with the arrival of the spring thaw, when the last snow subsides. Before immersing the seeds in the soil, they are soaked for 12-24 hours in water. The water is drained every couple of hours. The already mixed substrate is poured into the seed box. The main components are humus, leafy soil and sand. If leafy soil is not at hand, you can add peat. Having leveled the surface, the soil is sprayed from a spray bottle. Then the soaked seeds are carefully spread out. To prevent the liquid from washing the seeds from the ground, they are lightly pressed.
The container with crops is covered with foil or placed on top of glass. The shelter must not touch the ground. A favorable temperature for sprouting is considered to be an interval within 21-24 degrees. Crops are systematically opened for ventilation, and they also do not forget to maintain the humidity of the earthen coma at the desired level using a spray bottle.
Seedlings are expected on the 3rd or 5th week after sowing. When young plants appear above the surface, the shelter is removed for a while. Gradually, the airing breaks are increased until the bushes are fully strengthened and get used to the environment. When the seedlings acquire two or four leaves, they start picking at different pots to give the plants a chance to develop freely. Matured chlorophytums are transplanted into a permanent pot with a suitable soil mixture.
Growing from cuttings
A flower that is grown indoors is capable of forming layers. They are rosettes of leaves located on peduncles. If the task is to propagate a bush, the cuttings are separated from the mother plant and immersed in water or wet soil. After the roots appear, it is planted for further rooting in a separate flowerpot.
Diseases and pests
Insects often attack weakened specimens that have undergone improper care by the owner or are simply sick. Aphids, spider mites and worms pose a serious threat to chlorophytum bushes.
Possible difficulties in growing chlorophytum
- Darkening of the leaves . A similar problem occurs if the culture is lacking in nutrients or feeding is carried out chaotically. Brown spots that appear at the ends of the leaves may also indicate dry air in the apartment. Another reason is exposure to high temperatures or damage to the plates as a result of mechanical stress.
- Spotting. Hot and dry air in winter and overflowing soil lead to the formation of small brown spots on the surface of the plates.
- Loss of brightness . Leaves turn pale and wither in hot and stuffy environments. Greens become faded if they receive little light or mineral fertilizers. Topdressing should be complete. Along with organic matter, it is required to enrich the substrate with mineral compounds.
- Rotting vegetative parts. Mold covers leaves and flower stalks if irrigation rules are violated. As a rule, tubers especially suffer from waterlogging in winter. Heavy and air-tight soil is no less dangerous for the culture.
- Variegated species are discolored. If the varieties of chlorophytum, which are variegated, turn into monochromatic, this means that the flowerpot is in a too dark place. Supplementary lighting is organized next to flower pots when it is cloudy outside or short daylight hours. For these purposes, artificial lamps are specially placed.
- Lack of flowering. The plant will stop blooming if the growing container becomes too tight. Flowering is also not characteristic of young and still fragile bushes.
Useful properties of chlorophytum
Scientists have long proven that chlorophytum actually has cleansing properties. The flower absorbs carbon monoxide and formaldehyde. Since the accumulation of harmful substances occurs mostly in the kitchen, it is recommended to keep flowerpots here. In addition, the flower will perfectly decorate any windowsill and give the interior bright colors.
Types of chlorophytum with photo
Cape Chlorophytum (Chlorophytum capense)
They are called herbaceous perennials with wide rosettes and tuberous roots. The leaf blades are pale green. The surface is smooth to the touch. The shape is lanceolate. At the ends, the leaves taper. The outer side contains a groove, while the inner side has a keel. The leaves are about 3 cm wide. The length is about 50 cm. During the period of inflorescence formation, the top of the peduncle is first shown. A brush is assembled from white miniature flowers. The brushes sit in the leaf axils. Cape chlorophytum bears fruit in the form of capsules. Peduncles are devoid of young green rosettes on the peduncle arrows.
Winged chlorophytum (Chlorophytum amaniense)
Differs in rich petiolate foliage. The coloration of the terrestrial parts can range from pink to fiery orange. The grooved leaves look narrower closer to the base of the petiole. This species belongs to the varieties Fire Flash and Green Orange. Their petioles are colored orange. If the peduncles are not cut off in time, the petioles will lose their original color.
Chlorophytum crested (Chlorophytum comosum)
Another herbaceous perennial has a shortened stem. The foliage is pale and smooth to the touch. The leaves stick out straight from the stem and curl up intricately. In the center of the rosette, there is a shoot surrounded by small white star-shaped inflorescences. The flowering phase ends with the formation of a new leaf rosette in the sinuses. The roots, painted white, are fleshy and adhere tightly to the stem.