The second name of clivia is kaffir lily. This perennial tropical plant native to South Africa has taken root perfectly as an indoor flower in our homes. Blooming clivia is beautiful, but even after flowering it retains its high decorative effect due to its long juicy green belt-like leaves. Among other indoor flowers, clivia is a real long-liver: with proper care, it can grow and delight with a blooming view for more than a dozen years.
General description with photo
Clivia belongs to the Amaryllis family. It is a flowering perennial with bright bell-shaped flowers and dark green, belt-like leaves, even in width, growing almost in the same plane at an angle of 180⁰. The growth of the leaf mass is very slow, in a year the plant can add only 5 new leaves. However, each of them lives for a very long time, which is why the plant changes its appearance very slowly, while maintaining decorativeness all year round.
Kaffir lily blooms for about a month, during which one bud replaces another, which creates the effect of long flowering. At home, clivia retains a compact size, and this despite the fact that wild-growing specimens can reach truly gigantic sizes.
This is interesting. It is believed that the kaffir lily patronizes people born under the constellation Sagittarius, contributing to their more positive outlook on life and protecting them from outside aggression.
Features of flowering clivia
At a young age, the plant blooms no more than 1 time per year. But as it grows older, under the condition of absolute health, it will throw out flower stalks twice a year. As the dormant period comes to an end, the clivia begins to form a flower arrow. If the specimen rested in a cool room, then, after waiting for the peduncle to grow to about 15 cm, you need to move the flower pot to a warm place and provide it with regular watering.
The plant itself after this can not be touched. It should be watered infrequently and moderately, but regularly. If in the dormant phase the flower was in a warm room, simply increase watering. Water the plant with warm water to stimulate the development of the peduncle.
From the moment the buds appear, it is forbidden to move or turn the flower pot until the very end of flowering, limited only to watering and feeding.
After flowering is complete, clivia can continue to be watered and fertilized. In this case, after a few months, it may bloom again. But the lack of rest will affect the beauty and duration of flowering. Therefore, experienced flower growers recommend taking a break.
Flowering does not occur
The reason for the lack of clivia budding at home is most often excessive care and insufficient rest. In this case, you can try to artificially stimulate the resting phase. The flower is transferred to a dark, cool place, stop feeding and reduce watering to a minimum. After a few weeks, the kaffir lily should throw out the flower stalk. However, in most cases such measures are not required. The plant is unpretentious and blooms at least once a year without additional effort. Easily adapts to any room conditions.
Varieties of clivia with a photo
In culture, only three varieties of this tropical flower are grown.
Medium-sized species, reaching half a meter in height in adulthood. The leaves are of a characteristic dark green color, leathery, long, with an unexpressed sharpening at the ends. Flowering occurs in January-February, a tall powerful peduncle is ejected from the center of the flower, on which orange-red bell-shaped flowers bloom, collected in an umbrella-type inflorescence.
This species is the most common among decorative varieties. Its second name is Mminiata. In the dormant phase, it is almost impossible to distinguish it from other varieties: the same long leathery, belt-like leaves of a dark green color, the same pyramidal shape of the crown. But when flowering comes, cinnabar clivia opens orange-red buds with a characteristic yellow transition of the petals at the base of the throat. Up to 20 flowers can be formed on one peduncle. It is cinnabar clivia that is the basis for the work of breeders to develop new varieties and hybrids of this beautiful tropical flower.
Clivia is beautiful
The length of the leaves of this variety is inferior to the previous species, they rarely stretch more than 40 cm. A half-meter peduncle is carried high above them, carrying from 3 to 6 dozen buds in a racemose inflorescence. A distinctive feature of this species is a noticeable green in the color of the petals. The usual flowering time is the end of winter (secondary – in the second half of summer).
To successfully grow clivia, you need to touch it as little as possible – this is one of the most important rules that is very often violated out of ignorance. It is possible to rearrange a flower from place to place only in case of emergency and at transitional moments of the life cycle to ensure proper conditions for a period of active growth or dormancy. It is also not recommended to touch the soil outside the transplants, for example, to loosen it.
The flower is a fan of shady places; sunny southern window sills are contraindicated for him. It can be placed not on the windows, but near them; it will grow well on the western or eastern side. But the northern windows are still not suitable for him due to the complete lack of sunlight, here the Kaffir lily may not bloom. Here the flower can be rearranged only in the phase of its rest. In the summer, the plant will feel great outdoors in a semi-shady and not very windy corner.
Clivia imposes special requirements on the temperature content only in the inactive phase of the growing season. At this time, she needs to find a cool, shady place where she can rest with the minimum necessary moisture. As mentioned above, with the release of the peduncle for quality care, she will need to provide warm and humid conditions.
Watering and humidity
Kaffir lily does not impose any increased requirements for humidity. As for watering, it should be moderate, without stagnant water. The amount of moisture and the frequency of watering is adjusted depending on the life cycle.
The active growth of a flower requires enhanced nutrition, therefore, at the first signs of awakening from hibernation, it must be fed every 2 weeks using complex compositions for flowering indoor crops. When choosing top dressings, attention should be paid to the reduced content of the nitrogen component, which can be detrimental to flowering due to foliage growth.
In the dormant stage, no top dressing is applied to the soil. You should start fertilizing the flower no earlier than 2-2.5 months after entering the dormant phase, if you need to awaken it for re-blooming.
It is recommended to make a soil mixture based on soddy soil with humus with the addition of 15-20% sand. High-moor peat will be a good addition to the soil mixture. The arrangement of a drainage layer of at least 3 cm is mandatory.
Growing clivia at home does not provide for planned transplants. This should only be done when clearly necessary, such as when the root system no longer fits in the pot, leaving little room for soil. Transplantation is carried out extremely carefully by the method of transshipment, preserving the old clod of earth and filling the voids with new soil. With strong tightness of the roots, their decay is possible.
Due to the increased sensitivity of the culture to transplants, there is a great temptation to immediately transplant the flower into a spacious container for growth, however, this cannot be done. An excess of free space will lead to a lack of color, because in order for the plant to start forcing the peduncle at home, it needs a little stress. In addition, it is easy to provoke a defeat with gray rot.
To obtain seed material from clivia at home, artificial pollination is required. It will take a whole year for the fruits to ripen, during which time the fruits will change their color from green to bright orange and become soft. Only after that it will be possible to pluck them and select the seeds. If fruits ripen on the lily, you should not stop feeding.
Reproduction of clivia
There are two ways to obtain new flower specimens – seed and separation of lateral children. Children are considered suitable for self-planting if they have at least 4 leaves. It is best to do this during transplantation, so as not to injure the parent specimen twice. For planting children, small containers are used, into which, for the initial stage, sheet soil is poured in half with sand. In the future, regular moderate watering is carried out and the development of life cycles is monitored. The first 2-3 years the plant does not give color and, accordingly, does not hibernate.
The same soil mixture is suitable for planting seeds. You can expect shoots from them no earlier than 1-1.5 months. After the first leaf unfolds, the young seedling is planted in a separate container.
Clivia is characterized by very slow growth, so specimens grown from seeds will not bloom soon, but only after 3-4 years.
Pests and diseases
Most often, clivia is chosen by scale insects and mealybugs. With a non-critical lesion, pests are easily removed with a soapy solution or treatment with insecticidal preparations (“Aktellik”).
Of the diseases, gray rot is the most possible, which is provoked by too spacious or too close the content of the root system in the pot. A transplant is required, this time with a complete revision of the root system and a complete replacement of the soil. There is no guarantee that the plant will withstand such a transplant, but otherwise its death is inevitable.
Possible growing difficulties
- Clivia leaves turn yellow. If yellowness appears in separate spots, the cause is most likely a sunburn, too bright lighting. The location needs to be revisited. If yellowing begins at the ends of the leaves, the plant is suffering from a lack of moisture or has been moved, transplanted, or otherwise injured.
- Peduncle too short. Unfavorable temperature conditions (too cold) or lack of moisture. You can try spraying the leaves and watering a little more often.
- The peduncle has stopped developing and does not give buds. Sometimes clivia demonstrates a prolonged dormant phase, the plant needs to be finally awakened. To do this, it needs to be watered a little more often with warm water (not hot) and top dressing.
- White spots on leaves. In some cases, sunburn manifests itself in this way. You need to move the pot to a more shaded place.
- Clivia does not bloom. There may be several reasons – lack of lighting (remember that the open sun is contraindicated for it), the lack of a contrasting temperature regime when changing life phases, a short period of rest or its absence, too hot content.