During the renovation, everyone faced a problem – how to cut a corner on the ceiling boards. Even with the correct marking, it is not possible to saw off the fillet strictly along the line – it bends, crumples and crumbles. It is not possible to fix it exactly in the hand at the desired degree. Vices and other attachments leave visible dents.
Even if you cut perfectly flat workpieces by hand or on a machine, there will be a large gap between them during installation. This is despite the fact that on the floor, when fitting, the parts form a perfect connection. The conclusion suggests itself that it is impossible to carry out the fitting at home and the help of professional builders is required. Fortunately, things are not so bad. You can handle the task yourself.
In a workshop engaged in woodworking or repairing metal parts, this operation is not difficult. The bar is placed on the machine, fixed in the desired position, then the excess is removed with a circular saw. The machine has a device that allows you to rotate the baguette at a given degree and measure the required distance on each side. It is much more difficult to work without precision instruments.
After marking, you need to hold the blade in the correct position. Making a diagonal cut is much more difficult than making a straight cut. Such operations should not be performed on the eye. Everything must be measured carefully. There are several ways to simplify the task and avoid mistakes. First, you need to choose the right tool and understand what scheme to follow.
Choosing a tool for cutting different materials
- Fillets made of expanded polystyrene – despite their softness and low strength, it is difficult to work with them. They crumple, crumble, bend. To fix them, you need to make a certain effort, but dents remain on the foam, even after light pressure. You can get a straight line only with a very sharp blade. It does not pressurize the trim and easily penetrates the soft porous structure. As a rule, they use a carpenter’s or kitchen knife, or a hacksaw with fine teeth.
- Polyurethane and plastic products – they are much stronger and denser than foam. The surface is more difficult to crush. A special tool is used for cutting – the saw will crumble the butt, and it will take too long to work with an ordinary blade. If there is no such device, a long sharp kitchen knife or a saw with fine teeth will do.
- Wooden baguette – the butt can be cut with a wood saw . Hardwoods such as oak are easier to cut with a metal hacksaw.
Methods for joining factory products
- Using ready-made corner pieces that are glued to the inside and outside. They produce wide and narrow baguettes. They differ in material, shape and color, but it is not always possible to choose them for the interior.
- Internal ceiling connectors – regular strips are glued to them. Such connectors fill the interior space formed by the straight ends of the rails at 90 degrees to each other.
- Docking couplings – the baguette is inserted into the docking decorative boxes.
The size and shape of the parts must match the basic set of profiles.
How to calculate the line of connection of parts on their sides
On the back upper side of the plinth, a distance equal to its width is laid. It is measured from the edge and a line is drawn parallel to the end. On the upper face, it forms a square with it, on the side, if its dimensions differ, an elongated figure.
When finishing a column or a free opening, the markings are applied as follows: from the corner of the bar facing the room, a hypotenuse is drawn from above, dividing the square in half. Its projection is transferred to the facet facing the wall. For this, the space measured on the edge is also divided in half along the diagonal, drawing a line from the hypotenuse. The extra piece is cut along the two resulting diagonals.
If the joint faces inward, the diagonals are drawn in the opposite direction.
How to trim ceiling plinths in corners using a miter box
This tool is a U-shaped groove. In its sidewalls there are several slots for the blade. They are positioned so that the blade can be set at a given degree. The device is easy to find in the construction market and in the store. To make it yourself, you need a U-shaped profile of a suitable width or an oblong box.
In the middle of the workpiece, a square is drawn and grooves are made along it in the sidewalls to the very bottom. Placing the saw in the farthest furrows will give us the 45 degrees we need. The sides should not bend or wobble when cutting, otherwise the blade will get stuck in them, and the cut will turn out to be uneven. You can only work with products made of solid materials that keep their shape well. You need to make sure that the product is absolutely reliable, and its sides will not fall off at the most crucial moment. Handling a sharp object can cause injury.
Before gluing the ceiling plinth and cutting the corner, it is applied to the installation site. This is necessary not only in order to check how even the base is. This makes it easier to understand in what position the part will be located, and to correctly lay it in the miter box. Let’s imagine that its bottom is a ceiling. Place the rail in it. Let’s turn the tool towards us with the open side, from which the main part of the baguette, intended for installation, looks out. Now press the baguette with its perpendicular back faces to the bottom and left wall. Insert the saw into the holes so that its handle is on the left and closer to us. When working, do not press on the handle, otherwise dents will remain on the edges. The blade should be moved smoothly, trying to avoid burrs and chips.
If the holes in the sidewalls are too wide, you have to pay attention to the distortion of the saw. When making a miter box, it is advisable to take into account the thickness of the blade. The product should be easy and free to cut. A gap with walls is necessary, but it is better to keep it to a minimum – this will simplify the task and help avoid mistakes.
One of the most crucial moments is the final stage, when the cut has almost reached the end. The hanging part of the workpiece must be fixed in your hand. Plastic and styrofoam often buckle under their own weight, creating dents. Wood may crack along the grain. As a rule, the bottom of the front part suffers. Dents cannot be fixed. The array will be easy to glue, returning the piece that has come off to its place. It will need to be cut and secured to where it came off. You can use PVA glue, “Moment” , any other composition. The chip is firmly pressed against the smeared surface. Excess glue is carefully removed with a cloth or napkin.
The second bar is a mirror image of the first one, so we apply it to the right side of the miter box. Otherwise, the technology does not differ from the manufacture of the first bar. It is cut at the same angle but from a different sidewall.
In this case, the parts are also fixed. To cut the lath pressed against the left sidewall, insert the saw from the right side.
In the case when the rail is an integral part of the external and internal joint, the internal joint is first drawn up. Then the rail is applied to the installation site to make markings for the outside. Doing it right away is very risky. You can cut off the excess, and then the length of the prefabricated element will not be enough. There will be a noticeable gap. It is easier and faster to perform actions in the correct sequence.
How to properly cut the corners of the ceiling plinth under the ceiling
The method is used when the walls have irregularities – straight sections offset relative to their axis and bends. A protractor won’t help here. Products need to be attached in order to understand how to draw a marking line. Uncertainty can be measured, but surface bending is much more difficult to calculate than linear deviation. If you do not take into account the rounded shape, there will be a small gap. You have to put up with this when you can only cut on the floor – hard parts are difficult to handle in a suspended state. The easiest way is to make prefabricated elements from soft polystyrene foam by weight.
The foam fillet is alternately pressed against two curved legs so that it repeats their shape, and outlined with a pencil. You should get two conventionally perpendicular lines. The place of their intersection serves as the main reference point. It is selected so that the lines are visible on the surface. Then the bar is applied again, pressing the end, and trimmed from the obtained point to the intersection of the walls. The perpendicular element is also processed. The main thing is to keep the knife straight and not deviate from the given direction.
Pruning is done by eye, so errors are likely to appear. To eliminate them, the blanks are applied together and the excess material is removed. Only after that they are put on glue.
Transferring a line to a difficult terrain is more difficult than drawing a knife over it. You can put several points along the ruler, then remove the staff and cut it in a more convenient position.
The method is suitable for indoor and outdoor corners.
How to fix defects
It should be noted that it is almost impossible to do without slots. This requires perfectly flat walls or precise measuring instruments. Before installation, the edges of the foam and plastic fillets are trimmed with a sharp blade or knife. The tree is sawn and grinded with emery.
After removing too much material, don’t throw the part away. If it is white, the inner space of the seam is filled with putty or material residues. You can choose or make a thin plate of the desired thickness from them. When carrying out such jewelry work, it is not difficult to cut your hand. Removing extra millimeters is as difficult as filling in empty space.
Slats made from natural unpainted solid wood are difficult to seal with putty. Problem areas are covered with inserts from the same piece of the array. They can also be hidden behind a decorative adapter sleeve.