Delicate buds of Incarvillea are very short-lived in the cut, as soon as you collect a bouquet from them, it will fade in a day. But she can decorate a garden plot with her bright strokes almost all summer, and there is a place for her in almost any designer landscape, not to mention the usual courtyard. Planting and caring for Incarvillea is not burdensome, and the requirements for growing are not overstated compared to other outdoor flower crops, especially if efforts are made in the right direction.
General description with photo
In everyday life, Incarvillea is often found under the name garden gloxinia (but do not confuse it with this plant), it belongs to the Begoniev family. The flower grows abundantly in China, it was brought to Europe relatively recently, but it has spread rapidly. During the period of ejection of peduncles, the plant reaches an average height of 0.8 m. It blooms in late spring and blooms for a month. By the end of summer it may bloom, but not so abundantly, again. In place of the buds, elongated boxes with a large number of seeds are formed.
Despite the appearance, not quite neat and proportional, the flower looks cute and pretty. In nature, Incarvillea is a perennial, but in harsh weather conditions it is grown as an annual. Shoots branched, erect. The foliage is similar to ferns, but the leaf plates are large, glossy and wrinkled. The color palette is very diverse and close to phlox, its shades are pure, pastel, delicate.
Popular views with photos
Conventionally, all varieties of Incarvillea can be divided into annual and perennial, but the latter can be planted in open ground annually. And yet letniki for the Russian climate are more preferable, because they begin to bloom faster and easier.
Tall perennial, often reaching up to a meter in height. The leaves of the basal rosette are large, pinnately dissected. Bell-shaped pink-lilac flowers are collected in inflorescences of 3-4 pieces.
Highly decorative and rather compact appearance, usually not exceeding 30 cm. The leaves are pinnate, heart-shaped, dense, forming a lush undersized bush. Flowers can be light lilac or pale purple. The variety line also includes a large-flowered variety, which can significantly exceed the base and in height.
A very diverse species in terms of varietal variations, widely cultivated in the Celestial Empire and neighboring Asian countries. Differs in a large number of shapes and colors. Valued for abundant long flowering due to continuously growing new shoots. The dimensions are modest, about 30 cm.
Also a low, but much more lush variety, forming a dense turf with basal rosettes. The leaves are lyre-shaped, with an interesting bluish tinge. The flowers are pink-red, on the inside with white spots.
A very tall species that can reach human height. Shoots densely branched from below, but bare from above. The leaves are medium-sized, openwork, the inflorescences are loose and long, up to 25 cm in length. Also valued for long flowering of 1.5 months or longer.
This is interesting. There is a belief that garden gloxinia are magical vessels in which elves prepare their elixir, which gives eternal youth. They do this once a year, at night, in the midst of its lush flowering.
Proper care begins with a competent choice of a landing site, taking into account the species characteristics. If they are not observed, even cold-resistant varieties may not survive until next spring.
The plant easily tolerates the open sun even on the hottest summer days, but it may well adapt to a little shade. At the same time, the less ultraviolet the Incarvillea receives, the shorter and less bright it will eventually bloom. In completely shaded places, for example, under garden trees, you can never wait for flowers from it. In addition, the southern guest is sensitive to winds and drafts, as well as to wetlands. Based on the above, it is better to choose a place for planting Incarvillea on a hillock or on a sunny slope, where a stable outflow of rain and irrigation water is ensured.
Basically, they come down to two factors – lightness of the composition and high-quality drainage. If the soil is acidic, dolomite flour must be added to it or alkalized with fluff. You may have to resort to these measures repeatedly, almost every year. In the absence of flour or fluff, you can use old crushed plaster for this purpose. But, of course, it will be better to choose more suitable soils for planting Incarvillea.
Both seed and vegetative propagation methods are available for obtaining new plants.
Incarvillea from seeds
Experienced flower growers who have been growing this flower culture for more than a year recommend collecting seeds even before they are fully ripe, since this moment is easy to miss, and then there will actually be nothing to collect – everything will spill out onto the ground. Planting Incarvillea with seeds is available both by the seedling method and by direct sowing in open ground. For seedlings, it is convenient to use peat tablets. Having moistened them well in disposable cups, and waiting for swelling, the seeds are buried in peat by about 1 cm. Incarvillea seeds have excellent germination, and therefore there is no need to plant them with a margin. In addition, they endure transplantation and picking extremely poorly. Therefore, one grain is enough for one peat tablet. The cups are covered with the same dishes or glass and placed in a warm place.
It is impossible to pick an Incarvillea!
Sowing in open ground is less troublesome, but gives later results. If you are not afraid of losing time, then for planting in open ground you need to wait for stable heat and sufficient warming of the soil. Sowing is carried out in furrows about a centimeter wide immediately to a permanent place. In warm weather, when the air warms up to + 20C during the day, shoots can be expected after a week.
It is better to stock up on Incarvillea seeds in advance, because it does not live in one place for a long time, and the seeds retain their excellent germination for years. In the conditions of the middle lane, the maximum life span of a specimen is 3 years.
To harvest planting material, you need to wait until the plant comes into force, and its shoots accumulate a sufficient supply of useful elements. You need to cut off the apical stems of small length, no more than 5 cm. Important: the cut is made obliquely. The cuttings are soaked completely or only in slices in any liquid rooting biostimulant (you need to keep them there for several hours) and then buried in peat with arrangement in a mini-greenhouse container (cover with film or glass). It is necessary to ventilate and moisten the soil regularly. Make sure the earth doesn’t dry out.
The division of the bush
Not a very recommended method due to the poor survival rate of divisions and culture intolerance to transplants to new places. However, success can also be achieved in this way. It is better to divide the bush at the beginning or end of the season. If autumn is chosen for this, you need to hurry up and be in time before the first soil frosts. The best time to do this is in September.
To divide, you need to dig out the entire rhizome, it will not be difficult to do this, since it does not go to a depth of more than 20 cm. Then it must be chopped with an open shovel or pruner into pieces so that at least one sprout is preserved on each of them (growth point ). When planting delenok in a new place, the root neck can be deepened by 2-4 cm.
Many flower growers, wanting to keep the plant in a frosty winter, dig up the tubers for the winter and store them like dahlias or gladioli. The method can be justified if high-quality storage conditions are provided and planted in open ground in time in the spring. Dig up the rhizome only after the aerial part has completely died off.
With regard to fertilizers, the culture is not demanding and not picky. On fertile garden soil, a flower can grow without special dressings. It is better to enrich poor substrates with mineral complexes and / or organic matter. From the latter, you can not be afraid to use mullein or a solution of bird droppings, but you should still avoid getting liquid on the stems and flowers, and do not overdo it, because the excessive presence of organic matter in the soil reduces the cold resistance of the culture.