Laminate On Ceiling | Choice and Installation Material

Laminate On Ceiling | Choice and Installation Material

We figure out which laminate is better for the ceiling and give instructions for installing material in two ways: with glue and lathing. More recently, there has been a tendency to mount laminate flooring  on the ceiling. Despite the fact that this solution seems controversial, it has its merits. Moreover, you can implement it yourself. In the article we will tell you how best to do this.

Pros and cons of finishing

Let’s start with the pros.


  • One of the main advantages of the material is its lightness compared to the natural wooden flooring. If you want to cover the ceiling with wood, glued wood slats are better for this.
  • Such a surface is easy to care for: just a little wet cleaning .
  • Thanks to the variety of colors and textures, you can easily choose the material suitable for the interior. True, it is better not to take white panels, as they quickly fade in the sun.
  • The lamellas absorb sound and retain heat due to their dense multi-layer structure. This means that the coating can be used not only as a decorative element, but also as sound and heat insulation.
  • The laminate ceiling looks great in any interior, as you can see by looking at the photo. This versatility is not typical for every material.


  • Wooden dies absorb moisture well, so it is not recommended to install such a finish in the bathroom or kitchen . Even if you buy lamellas with increased moisture resistance, there is no guarantee that they will not deform and will not begin to lag behind the ceiling.
  • Another negative factor is the use of phenolic resins in the production. During the first month of operation, the room with laminate finishing will have to be periodically ventilated, since the coating will emit toxic substances.
  • Like other wood-based materials, laminate cladding does not tolerate temperature changes well: you should not install it in rooms that are too hot, or, conversely, too cold.

Tips for choosing a material

When buying dies, you can ignore their wear resistance, density and thickness: all this matters only for floor coverings. Another thing is moisture resistance. Despite the fact that special impregnations and a reinforced layer do not protect the material from moisture by 100%, it is still better to choose moisture-resistant products. In any case, it is more durable.

Having calculated the required amount, take 15-20% more lamellas and make sure that all products are of the same shade and from the same manufacturer. When choosing a color, imagine in advance how the  laminate on the ceiling will fit into the interior. Any difference between the dies is immediately apparent. For this reason, it is better to immediately purchase the entire batch, so that later you do not have to order something extra. Otherwise, it may turn out that the desired color is not available anywhere else.

Take a closer look at the size. Choose them so that there are not very many joints. The longer the panels, the fewer joints. In this case, the boards should not be too wide: it is not easy to lay lamellas more than 15 cm wide.

It is also better not to take massive products. It is difficult to work with them, and it is not always possible to apply them. So, for old wooden floors, which are unlikely to withstand the additional load, they cannot be used. Test the material for flexibility: the better it bends, the easier it is to lay. To make the laminate on the ceiling look as beautiful as in the photo of the interiors, make sure that the panels do not have any factory defects: chips, cracks, damages in the locks.

Required tools

To mount the laminate to the ceiling, you do not need to use any special devices. Here’s what to prepare.

  • A tape measure and a pencil with a soft lead – you will need to use them to mark up.
  • Electric drill – for drilling holes for fasteners.
  • Sharp drills.
  • Dowels, nails, self-tapping screws are needed directly for installation.
  • A hammer and a mallet, with their help you need to hammer in nails and align the dies in place, knocking them out, for a tighter connection with each other.
  • Building level.
  • A hacksaw and a jigsaw – without them it will not be possible to cut the material to size, but this must be done for installation in narrow places.
  • Ladder. It is even better if these are construction or joinery trestles, from which you can build a comfortable stage. Working on them is much better than on a metal ladder.

Additional materials

  • To mount the laminate on the ceiling in a wooden house, you will need bars with a section of 40×40 mm to create the lathing.
  • For a floor that is leveled with plasterboard or particle boards, special assembly glue is useful .
  • A concrete surface will most likely require a metal profile. But you can save money by using the same wooden slats.

Adhesive selection

Regular adhesive for laying lamellas on the ceiling will not work, since it is made on a water basis. When choosing a composition, adhere to several important criteria.

Criterias of choice

First of all, it is water resistance. Adhesion rates are also important. If they are too low, there is a high risk that sooner or later the boards will begin to move away. The adhesive must firmly adhere the surface of the base to the cladding.

Another criterion is resistance to temperature changes. For owners of country houses, this is important, because when a heating boiler breaks down, the temperature in the house drops sharply for some time.

Pay attention to environmental safety : the composition should not release any toxins. Sustainability is especially important if allergy sufferers, small children or elderly people live in the house.

Which glue works best

Experts recognize the two-component composition based on polyurethane as the best. It is highly moisture resistant and includes polyvinyl acetate, which makes the bond of the finish to the substrate very strong. The glue consists of two elements: a base compound and a hardener. The only drawback is the high price. When buying, pay attention to the brand: a well-known brand is a guarantee that the products are not toxic.

A one-component polymer-based adhesive is also suitable. It is also called “Superglue”. It does not contain water and also has good adhesion. At the same time, both the minuses and the pluses include its very fast setting. Only an experienced master can work with such glue.

Popular liquid nails made from synthetic resins provide excellent waterproofness and a high level of strength. But it is impractical to use them with panels less than 1.4 cm thick. Such formulations are well suited for sealing joints.

As already mentioned, the lining of the upper floor with laminated panels can be done in one of two ways: mount the trim with glue or fix it on a pre-installed frame. We will tell you how to fix the laminate to the ceiling with glue.

How to glue laminate to the ceiling

At first it may seem that it is easier to glue the covering than to mount it on the crate, but the installation process is also laborious: it is enough to glue one lamella incorrectly so that all subsequent rows are uneven. As a result, everything will have to be removed and re-laid.

Surface preparation

The glue method requires a perfectly flat surface, therefore, the base must be carefully prepared before installation. Use a trowel to remove old finish – paint, whitewash or plaster residues. Problem areas – potholes and chips – cover with putty .

Check the evenness of the overlap with a long metal strip: if there are small differences in height somewhere, level them with the same putty.

With large differences (more than 50 mm), leveling the ceiling is useless: in this case, a frame must be used.

At the joints of concrete slabs, embroider the seams with a perforator, fill them with polyurethane foam , cut off the excess, and apply the putty again on top.

After the composition is dry, sand the surface with a fine-grained sandpaper. Then apply a deep penetrating acrylic primer: first one coat, and then, when it dries, a second.

Instruction for gluing lamellas

  • Start gluing the laminate from the far corner to the left of the door. Apply the adhesive first to the base and then to the back of the lamella. Gently press it against the floor surface, and with the end part close to the wall. Tap along the entire panel with a mallet. After making sure it holds well, start attaching the next board.
  • The lamellas of each next row first join the lamellas of the previous row with the lock, and then glue them to the ceiling. Before joining, it is advisable to lubricate the lock with a sealant: this will make the joint more durable.
  • In a living space, install the panels parallel to the window, if it is a balcony or loggia – perpendicular. At the same time, it is convenient to use the shortest possible boards. The rows must be spaced apart – so that the end seams do not fall on each other (as in brickwork).

How to mount on a frame

The lathing can be either wooden or metal. The installation steps are approximately the same in both cases. Let’s consider them using the example of a concrete floor and a wooden frame.

Preparation of the crate

First, mark the lathing. Mark the location of the cross and longitudinal bars, as well as where they are attached. The interval between the lags is 40-60 cm. Drill the holes and insert the dowels.

Fasten the slats according to the markings: first longitudinal, and then transverse – along the edges of the ceiling. If there are elevation differences, compensate for them with bars of different thicknesses, which must be prepared in advance.

Remember to run the wires where the fixtures should be, and cut holes in the laminate for them.

If necessary, insulation can be laid between the slats, but in any case, a hydro or vapor barrier is needed.

Installation instructions

  • Start installation from the corner. When laying the lamellas against the wall, leave a small distance of 10-20 mm between it and the material. Place the panels perpendicular to the lathing, fixing them with fasteners.
  • Place the first row, securing the panels along the edges and on the edge of the lock. First join the lamellas of the next rows with a lock, and then fasten with self-tapping screws or nails. Lubricate the lock with adhesive before docking. Trim the boards with a jigsaw if necessary.
  • Special clamps can be used as fasteners. Their use will allow you to mount the trim more accurately and practically without seams. When laying the panel, first join it to the previous one, and on the other hand fix it to the pre-installed cleats with self-tapping screws.
  • The final stage is the design of the gaps between the laminate and the walls. For this purpose, glue the polyurethane skirting boards with liquid nails.

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