Nidularium

Nidularium

Nidularium belongs to the bromeliad family. This plant grows in wildlife in an epiphyte way, it is found in the humid tropics of the American continent. Since the inflorescence is located in the center of the rosette with leaves, hence the name, which is conventionally translated from Latin as “nest”.

If you like exotic, you will love the nidularium. A bright, interesting, unusual flower literally attracts attention. Caring for nidularium at home is specific. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the features of the plant and the rules of caring for it.

Botanical description

Nidularium
Nidularium

Epiphyte and semi-epiphyte plants are found among nidularia. They are all stemless. Nidularia consists of a large, dense rosette of leaves. Leaves broadly linear, pointed, dark green. Up to 20 leaves in one outlet.

Flowers are small, inconspicuous, gather in spike-shaped inflorescences. Large bracts of rich shades give them decorativeness. The most common color of bracts is red.

After flowering, the rosette of leaves gradually dies off, leaving behind several children. The babies take root on their own, grow quickly and soon bloom. Thanks to this mechanism of reproduction in nature, the flower grows over large areas.

Subtleties of care

Nidularium

They take care of the flower like most epiphytes. All of them have specific requirements for care and growing conditions.

Lighting Prefers diffused light or light partial shade. Direct sunlight is bad for leaf health. In autumn and winter, it needs full lighting. The optimal length of daylight hours is 12-13 hours. Supplement artificially with phytolamps or fluorescent lamps.
Temperature In spring and summer it needs moderate heat. They are kept at a temperature of 21-24 ° C. In winter, the resting phase begins – the temperature is lowered to 14-17 ° C. Withstands short-term temperature drop up to 8-10 ° C.
Watering Water is poured directly into the outlet of the plant. The signal for watering is the drying of the top layer of the substrate in the pot. In winter, watering is minimized, replaced by spraying leaves from a spray bottle. The soil is moistened only occasionally, preventing it from completely drying out.
Humidity Maintain a consistently high humidity. The flower is systematically sprayed with warm water. Additionally, the flower is placed in a container with wet expanded clay. Leaves are periodically wiped from dust with a damp cloth.
Top dressing The period of top dressing is from March to September. Frequency – no more than once a month. Introduce universal mineral complexes or agents for bromeliads. Fertilizers with a minimum nitrogen content are chosen. The diluted fertilizer is poured directly into the socket.
The soil Loose, breathable soils are suitable. The preferred composition is in three parts of a pine pore, one part of high-moor peat, sphagnum, humus and leafy soil. A small amount of sand and crushed coal are added.
Transfer Transplants are rare, no more than once every two years. A thick layer of drainage is poured onto the bottom – a third of the pot. When planting, the neck is not covered with a substrate. Use shallow and wide pots.

Two ways of breeding

Nidularium

The plant can be purchased from the store or grown independently of seeds. The first method gives a fast flowering, when grown from seeds, flowering will come only after 3-4 years. Propagated only vegetative.

  • Growing from seeds. Seeds germinate only in a light substrate that retains moisture well. Use a peat-sand mixture or mix sand with crushed sphagnum. The seeds are pretreated with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate and dried. Sow into a prepared substrate, moisten, cover with glass. Germinate at 23-24 ° C, ventilate the greenhouse, moisten the soil. The emergence of seedlings – in 2-3 weeks, picking in cups – in 2-3 months. Semi-annual seedlings are planted in permanent soil in separate pots.
  • Reproduction by offspring. After the plant dies off, daughter rosettes begin to grow from the replacement buds. After 2 months they have 4 leaves and full roots. At this stage, they are separated and placed in separate pots. The first time they are kept under cover at a high temperature of 25-27 ° C.

Pests and difficulties of cultivation

Nidularium

In the vicinity of infected plants, inappropriate growing conditions, they are easily affected by pests. The danger is posed by common pests of indoor crops – scale insects, mealybugs, red spider mites, aphids. Systemic insecticides are used to control insects. The most common means are “Aktellik”, “Fitoverm”, “Aktara”, “Inta-vir”. Treatment with acaricides – “Acrophyte”, “Apollo” will be more effective against spider mites. The rest of the problems are associated with improper care.

The plant died without flowering Systematic waterlogging, poor drainage. Water is poured directly into the leaf outlet only after the surface of the substrate has dried.
Light brown spots The likely cause is sunburn. The window must be shaded from the sun.
Brown leaf tips Hard water, no moisture in the socket, low humidity. Follow the rules and technique of watering, spray regularly.

Nidularium

If you have already dealt with epiphyte plants, caring for nidularium will not be difficult for you. This bright, showy, unusual plant is much easier to grow than it might seem at first glance.

Types of Nidularium with photo

Nidularium billbergioides

Nidularium billbergioides
Nidularium billbergioides

The rosette is funnel-shaped, formed from broad-linear pointed leaves, narrowed towards the base. The length of the leaves reaches 70 cm, the edges are finely serrate. The capitate inflorescence consists of several spikelets. Bracts are lemon-yellow, bright, elegant.

Nidularium brilliant (Nidularium fulgens)

Nidularium brilliant (Nidularium fulgens)
Nidularium brilliant (Nidularium fulgens)

The rosette is dense, consists of belt-like leaves. The surface is smooth, the color of the upper side is green, slightly mottled. The tips of the leaves end in small brown spines curved upward. Bracts of expressive lilac-violet color.

Nidularium innocentii

Nidularium innocentii
Nidularium innocentii

Leaves are numerous, more than half a meter long. The form is lingual, pointed, with thorns along the edge. The upper side of the leaf plate is reddish with a predominance of green. The back side is burgundy. The rosette is dense, spreading. The inflorescence is formed from 5-6 ears. Bracts are large, bright red.

Nidularium purpureum

Nidularium purpureum
Nidularium purpureum

The leaves are elongated, narrow. A characteristic feature is white small scales on the leaves. Bracts are oval, with finely serrated edges, reddish-brownish tint.

Advice! You can create very interesting compositions from epiphytes – whole corners of wilderness at home. A branched snag is placed in a container with stones or pebbles. The size is chosen arbitrary, but flowers look more expressive on large snags. The roots of the nidularium are wrapped in sphagnum, the plant is fixed on a snag with a rope or coarse wire. The outlet must point upward to prevent water flowing out. In one composition, you can use not only nidularium, but also other epiphytic plants.

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